The Salkantay Trek was the hardest, most exhausting, most beautiful, and most transformative thing I have ever done. Over five days and four nights, I hiked approximately 74 kilometers through the Peruvian Andes, crossing a mountain pass at 4,630 meters above sea level, passing through every climate zone from glacial tundra to cloud forest to jungle, and arriving at Machu Picchu with tears streaming down my face. It was everything and more 🇵🇪🥾.
The trek begins in the village of Mollepata, about a 3-hour drive from Cusco. Our group of 12 trekkers, two guides, and a team of porters and horsemen gathered at dawn, loaded our gear, and set off into the Andes. The first day was a relatively gentle introduction — about 12 kilometers of gradual uphill through Andean farmland, past herds of llamas and alpacas, with the snow-capped peak of Salkantay (6,271 meters) growing larger with every hour. We camped that night at Soraypampa at 3,900 meters, surrounded by glaciers, under more stars than I’ve ever seen in my life 🌌.
Getting There & First Impressions
Day two was the beast. The Salkantay Pass at 4,630 meters was the highest point I’ve ever stood. The climb started at 4 AM in freezing temperatures, headlamps cutting through the darkness, every breath a struggle in the thin air. As the sun rose, the Salkantay glacier turned pink, then gold, then blinding white, and I was crying from the cold, the effort, and the overwhelming beauty. At the top of the pass, prayer flags snapped in the icy wind, and the panorama of snow-capped peaks stretching in every direction was the most incredible thing I’ve ever witnessed. The descent into the lush Polylepis forest on the other side felt like walking into a completely different world 🏔️.
Days three and four transformed as we dropped in altitude, from high-altitude grasslands into cloud forest and then tropical jungle. The landscape changed dramatically — suddenly there were orchids, butterflies, hummingbirds, coffee and avocado plantations, and the air was warm and thick with the scent of tropical flowers. We passed through tiny Quechua communities where children ran out to wave, crossed suspension bridges over roaring rivers, and soaked in natural hot springs under a canopy of stars. The contrast from the frozen pass just days earlier was surreal 🦋.
Top Highlights & Must-See Spots
On the morning of day five, we woke at 3:30 AM to catch the bus up the switchbacks to Machu Picchu. I was exhausted, blistered, sunburned, and mosquito-bitten — and I have never felt more alive. Walking through the Sun Gate and seeing Machu Picchu emerge from the morning mist below us, after five days of hiking to get there, was the most powerful moment of my entire life. Every aching muscle, every gasping breath at altitude, every moment of doubt had led to this. I sat at the Sun Gate and sobbed with joy 🌅.
Our guides were incredible — bilingual Quechua and Spanish speakers who shared stories about Inca history, pointed out medicinal plants, and kept us motivated when the altitude and exhaustion hit hard. They also taught us about the Apus — the sacred mountain spirits that the Quechua people believe protect and watch over the land. Making small offerings of coca leaves to the Apus before crossing the pass felt respectful and deeply connecting 🙏.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
Practical tips: book your trek with a reputable company that treats its porters fairly (ask about wages and working conditions). Bring layers for every climate — you’ll experience temperatures from below freezing to over 30°C. Break in your hiking boots well before the trip. Bring altitude sickness medication (Diamox) and start taking it 24 hours before. And train your legs — the descents are harder than the climbs and will destroy unprepared knees 📝.
The Salkantay Trek is often called the best alternative to the classic Inca Trail, but honestly, many people prefer it — the scenery is more varied, the passes are more dramatic, the route is less crowded, and arriving at Machu Picchu after five days of earning it makes the experience infinitely more powerful than simply taking a train 💪.
Final Thoughts
This trek didn’t just show me Peru’s incredible landscapes — it showed me what I’m capable of. When you stand at 4,630 meters gasping for air and convince yourself to take one more step, something shifts inside you. The Salkantay Trek broke me down and rebuilt me stronger, and I carry that mountain with me everywhere I go ❤️.
Planning the Salkantay Trek? 👉 Check out my full Salkantay Trek travel page for all the details, tips, and packing list!

No responses yet